Update 1

October 29 to 31, 2011 – Saturday to Monday

After 14 ½ hours from Chicago landed at New Delhi.  Spent the night in the Eaton Smart hotel in the international section of the airport.  We were met by a very helpful young man who escorted us to the hotel while our luggage and other formalities were magically handled by someone.  I was a little worried that they kept our passports, but the next morning at breakfast they were handed back to us along with other documentation and baggage receipts.

The itinerary sent by Ram Pahari of Himalaya Journey Treks and Expeditions said “Arrival in Kathmandu 1,334m, transfer to hotel”.  “Transfer” is a serious exaggeration – more like “crawl”.  There seemed to be no rules, with lines of cars, and what seems like thousands of motorcycles sometimes crossing the centerline two rows deep.  Lots of honking as we wound our way painstakingly through amazingly impoverished areas, avoiding pedestrians, a couple of cows, cyclists, and the thousands of other vehicles, all gunning for the same position at the same time.  The patience of the people in the midst of this chaos was quite inspiring.  While everybody leaned on their horns constantly and we witnessed hundreds of near misses, nobody seemed to get exited, and took the pandemonium in their stride.

After more than an hour in absolute traffic hell – which I found most exciting! – we finally made it into the Thamel area, a chaotic haven of less disastrous appearance, with thousands of shops, restaurants and other businesses lining the narrow “streets”.  People, motorcycles, rickshaws cars went everywhere, in every direction.  The energy of the place was palpable and contagious.  The spirit of this upper class area of Kathmandu!  We were excited to be there, in Kathmandu.  What an exotic name!

With the air grey with pollution, our eyes and noses burning and ears ringing form the cacophony of “hooters”, we arrived at the very adequate hotel, the Hotel Manang, and were greeted by some very friendly staff and a glass of fruit juice, a welcome libation after the smog, exhaust fumes and dust.

Five of our six adventurers made it to Kathmandu today.  Kathy and Al Wilson from Indianapolis, Indiana who joined me on the Kilimanjaro climb and Serengeti safari I organized in 2008;  Pete McIlroy, a friend from Columbus, Ohio, and his friend from Newburyport, Mass. Roger Verney.  Kent Stucky from Columbus would join us the next day.  We deposited our luggage in our rooms and set out to explore Thamel on foot.  A whole new experience!  Now WE were dodging cars, motorcycles, bicycles, and what seemed to be thousands of other pedestrians, all the while experiencing the polite nature of these gentle people.  How exciting it was to be there!

As we meandered down narrow streets surrounded by a zillion souvenir shops with incense burning and sellers motioning you to check out their wares, Pete and I decided we all needed a drink, and walked into a restaurant with a bar.  This led to a lovely evening of great Indian food (and great camaraderie and getting to know one another a little).  It confirmed for me what I knew already – this was going to be a great group of friends with whom to share an adventure such as we are about to experience.

Exhausted and somewhat out of sorts because of the 10-hour time-change we went to bed.  A strange thing, these mattresses on these beds.  It was about three inches thick, but hard as a board.  It reminded me of the time when I was in basic training in the South African navy in 1968.  We were on a march in a remote part of the Cape Province, and after three days have had very little sleep.  We came across an abandoned house with some furniture, lots of bats and other vermin.  I was so exhausted I found myself falling asleep on top of the kitchen table amidst the dirt and dust.  This mattress in the Hotel Manang felt like that tabletop.  I woke up at a 3 am. feeling like my hipbones were protruding through my skin.  I got up, stripped the bed, unrolled my nice new Thermarest self-inflating camping mattress pad, re-made the bed, and slept like a baby the rest of the night on a very comfortable camping mattress.

1st November, 2011 – Tuesday – Day 1

After a great breakfast we took to the narrow, crowded streets again, exploring and experiencing the smells and sounds of Thamel.  Back at the Manang Hotel we met up with Kent who had just arrived from New Delhi.  Unfortunately his backpack with all his hiking gear went somewhere else.

We spent a relaxing afternoon at a local pub, and then received the word that Kent’s backpack did not make it on the last flight from New Delhi.  I had been the brunt of the joke in that I clearly over-packed.  I had three fleece jackets, 8 pairs of socks, and multiple shirts.  “Who would need EIGHT PAIRS of socks?  Two pairs should be enough for 16 days!” they joked.  So Kent and I went to our room and I shared all my extras with him, including four pairs of socks.  He spent the rest of the evening shopping for boots and other essentials, and we finally got to bed just before midnight.Ram took us to his company’s office a few blocks from the hotel for our pre-hike “Lukla - Everest Base Camp – Kala Pattar trekking briefing with officially arrangements.”  Ram’s coverage of the next 16 days’ hike and adventure was exhaustive and complete.  We all felt a lot more confident after this briefing, with a much clearer understanding of what to expect.

2nd November, 2011 – Wednesday – Day 2

If you can’t Climb it, Drink it!

Itinerary Entry: After breakfast, Kathmandu by Flight to Lukla & trek to Phakding – 2,630m (the guys had some fun with this name – the “Ph” is pronounced “F”.)

I am sure I slept for only an hour, but my room mate, Kent, told me I slept a lot more than that judging from the snoring.  “I really was not sleeping”, I said.  “I just like to breathe that way!”

We had a 4:30 am. wake-up, and Ram collected us at 5:15 for the airport for our 6 am. departure to Lukla.  Our adventure is starting!

We boarded the mini bus and Ram escorted us to the airport on his motorcycle.  This time it took barely 20 minutes – very little traffic this early, but still many people walking in all directions in the dark.

We arrived at the airport in the pre-dawn dark, and the place was chaos!  How I love the energy of this craziness!  We were accosted by a herd of porters, all wanting to carry our bags.  We are rushed through security and to the airport tax counter, the check-in counter, through more security, all the while being urged to hurry because “the flight will leave exactly at 6 o’clock”.   We hurry and gather at the departure gate excited about departing on the small plane to Lukla.

We really miss our friend Mike Cantlin.  This adventure is really his fault.  Mike was my tent mate on the Kilimanjaro trek in 2008, and we decided that we needed another adventure, another goal.  After Kilimanjaro I wrote in my book Kilimanjaro! that one needs goals, and that my next goal was Aconcagua the highest mountain in South America situated in the Andes in Argentina.  A 23,000 foot mountain, I was dissuaded when Mike researched and found out that proportionately as many people die on Aconcagua each year as in the attempt to summit Mt. Everest.  Mike suggested that, at our age, Everest Base Camp would be a more appropriate risk.  I love adventure, but I do not have a death wish, so we decided on the Everest trek.  Unfortunately Mike’s knee surgery did not allow him to join us.  Bummer!

This topic of Everest Summit as opposed to Everest BC came up in discussion last night.  Al said that he felt Everest summit attempts require some drive, some passion, some extraordinary obsession, and that he felt it was an inappropriate risk.  I said, “I am so glad to hear you say that, because I have wondered sometimes if my position on Everest summit was just a cop-out because I am not capable of doing it.  I suppose if I judged the risk worth the reward, I would consider it.  But I don’t.  I always said that treks like Kilimanjaro and Everest Base Camp are adventure.  Everest summit, Aconcagua and other extreme endeavors are for me outside my desire for adventure.

3 pm. and we were still sitting in the departure lounge.  No word about the weather in Lukla clearing.  Conditions at Lukla must be near perfect for planes to land there.

One evening some time ago Mike called me at home in Columbus.

“Willie, are you home?’ he asked.

“Yes.”

“Turn on the History channel.  They have a show on about the 10 most dangerous airports in the world.”

Well, of course Lukla was featured as the number one most dangerous airport in the world.  So our anticipation mounted as we were sitting in the Kathmandu airport hoping we would even get out today.

Until just over 40 years ago the eastern Himalayan region of the Solukhumbu leading to Mt. Everest was inaccessible to most air traffic. The way to reach the heights of the trailhead in Lukla was to travel the road from Kathmandu to Jiri, then hike five days over the rugged lowland hills. In 1964 Sir Edmund Hillary initiated construction of the Lukla airfield (LUA), and from that time the area has been opened up to countless enthused hikers.  It is a great convenience to bypass the arduous hike beyond Jiri since the hike beyond Lukla is challenging enough for most.  Lukla is now a vibrant and welcoming entryway to the Himalayas.

Finally at 3:45 pm. – no flights to Lukla today.

Landing at Lukla is dangerous, and we were pleased that the authorities take no chances when it comes to the weather.  We got up, stiff from sitting on a hard metal chair since 6 am.  Hungry and tired we make the trek back to the Hotel Manang.   Fortunately we were able to get the rooms of the folks who were stuck at Lukla.

While disappointed, our spirits are high.  We have quite come to like the local beer named –what else? -  Everest.  So, as we contemplate our position and options I said: “I know what we will do.  If you can’t climb it, drink it!”

Tired and hungry, we hit the streets of Thamel for libation and dinner, and hit the sack at about 8 pm.  Unfortunately Kent and I were both up at 3 am with a stomach problem.  Hopefully it is temporary.  .  Kent says it is “healthy diarrhea”.

We had a flight booked for 11:00 am that morning.  If this did not work out our last chance would be to go by helicopter the next day…

Bummer!

3rd November 2011 – Thursday – Day 03

We have been up since 3 am.  Going to bed at 8 pm. was maybe not such a good idea!

Kent went downstairs for an internet connection, and I liay in bed wishing I could sleep another hour.  I got my computer out and edited a short video – a “trailer” of our adventure.  Fun!

After breakfast, still making frequent short trips to the restroom, we settled in to wait for the word on the day’s travels.  Ram called and informed us that there were no flights to Lukla today.  We had only one option now and that is to go by helicopter tomorrow.  This would entail an additional two-hour hike just to get to Lukla, but we all enthusiastically vote YES for this option.  This is why we were here.  We came to go to Everest Base Camp, and nothing except the weather could stop us!

I took an Imodium.  Definitely a miracle drug and an essential on all trips!

Hope to post POSITIVE news tomorrow…

November 2011

“Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature’s peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy, while cares will fall off like autumn leaves.” – John Muir

Click on the image above to go directly to the documentary video:  Everest! A Trek to Base Camp and Back 2011 (HD 1080i)  

“I was sitting on the summit of the 18,200 foot Kala Pattar in the mountains of Nepal. The tallest mountain in the world, Mount Everest at 29,029 feet dwarfed the surrounding Himalayan mountain peaks. I was in the middle of a near-complete circle, a bowl surrounded by the highest mountain peaks in the world. To see this view was for me a lifetime high, likely impossible to ever match in whatever time I have left on this earth.” – Willie Grové

Click on the thumbnail to go to the Blurb.com Bookstore where my book,  Everest! A Trek to Base Camp and Back is available for purchase.

Click HERE to see all Everest videos in the Everest! A Trek to Base Camp and Back – 2011 Playlist in 

Click HERE to see all my videos posted on 

Below are 10 Posts of this adventure mainly posted while trekking to Everest and back.

1. Everest!

My group consisted of Kent Stuckey, Columbus, Ohio, Pete McIlroy, another friend from Columbus and his friend, Roger Verney from near Boston Mass.  Kathy and Al Wilson from Indianapolis rounded out our group.  They summited Mt. Kilimanjaro in Tanzania with me in 2oo8.

I sometimes ask myself the question, “Why do I want to do this apparently crazy stuff.  Roger Verney analised this over a beer in a local Kathmandu bar one afternoon.  He said “I think you want to do this because you thrive on achievement”.

I agree, but there is more.  Yes, the physical challenge, the adrenaline, etc.  But I think what really makes me do it is the SPIRITUAL high from an adventure such as this.

Every year when I go ski out West, it takes me several weeks to get down from the euphoria.  I climbed Kilimanjaro in 2008, and I still can hardly speak of that experience… I am still high on it.  This Everest adventure, having discovered my own physical, emotional and spiritual limits, will remain a highpoint for the rest of my life.  So, maybe it is best summarized in this poem I came across some time ago by Robert Cramer.

“I Climb to be Free”

Why I am Thankful…

I am gratified that I had the strength and endurance to complete this adventure.  I am even more gratified for the priviledge of living, working and serving in the United States of America.  An experience such as this adventure reinforces this appreciation; an appreciation expressed in the Thanksgiving letter I sent to my clients and friends after I returned from Nepal:

Wednesday, November 23, 2011 2:59 PM

Subject: I am Thankful…

Many of our clients and friends know that I returned on Monday this week from an incredible adventure – a 14-day trek (I should say “climb”) from Lukla , Nepal , to Everest Base Camp, 17,600 ft. as well as a summit of Kala Patthar, 18,240 ft. the next day. You can read my blogs and see some videos and photos HERE.

This was a grueling adventure for a person my age – an adventure of a lifetime. I am thankful that I had the strength to reach my goal – physically, mentally and spiritually. This was the most difficult adversity I have ever overcome and the greatest challenge I have conquered.

I learned much in the 14-day climb, trek, hike to Everest Base Camp and back. I learned about myself and my companions. I learned about human endurance and human suffering. But most of all, I learned patience, persistence, and PACE. Apart from staying healthy among the hardship of cold temperatures, the potentially lethal effects of altitude sickness (AMS), the dry, dusty air, hydration and nutrition, pacing oneself on an adventure such as this is likely the most important component to reach the goal.

Some trekkers dash up the mountain, just to find that in the end they are exhausted, spent. I found that, by setting my pace on a daily basis – not too fast, not too slowly – regardless of the steepness of a 1,000 foot climb or descent, whether we were at the mountain top or along the Dudh Kosi river deep down in the Khumbu valley, determinedly, steadfastly adhering to my PACE was what finally saw me through this adventure. Because of this, not only did I make it, I actually was STRENGTHENED by it. Physically, emotionally and spiritually.

My journey reminded me that this is our goal in advising our clients regarding their lives, their finances and their goals. Investing is not a sprint, it is a marathon. Planning for the long term cannot be determined by the daily ups-and-downs, but rather by steadfastly, determinedly establishing our goals, setting the course, and keeping the pace.

After almost 48 hours’ travel from the incessant pandemonium of the traffic in Kathmandu , the foul air caused by the polluting tuk-tuks, thousands of scooters, motorcycles and other vehicles noisily tangled up in perpetual gridlock in the narrow, dirty streets of this incredibly crowded city, I said a quiet prayer of thanks as my flight glided into Port Columbus. I was looking down on the organized, clean suburbs surrounding Columbus , the orderly flow of traffic in the tidy streets and the air free of pollutants from unmitigated foul emissions from vehicles, with no disease-causing animal and human fecal dust mixed in with the smell of thousands of Yak-dung fires in the air.

I am Thankful…

And I said Thank You! Thank you for America and our imperfect system, for a government that’s all broken and contributing to the economic and investment volatility, and for a tax system about which we all complain from time-to time. Because I know that those wonderful, friendly, open and caring people I met in Nepal , in the mountains from village to village, with no roads, no heating, and questionable sources of food and water, and the throngs of humanity I saw in Kathmandu, would give their left arm to live in this dysfunctional society, the United States of America .

I am Thankful…

… for the privilege of living, working and serving in this country. Each year, we here at Grové Financial Group, try to make a difference in our community because even though we live in the best place in the world, there is a great need in our country. Rather than sending Holiday cards, we support community needs which are important to us. One such cause is Christine’s Christmas, an event about which you have already received an email from me.

I am Thankful…

… for YOU, our client, and for the opportunity to serve you.

I am Thankful…

… for my family and my friends, and for the opportunity to spend a day with them tomorrow to reflect on our good fortune in our beautiful, wonderful country, state, city, community, home.

With gratitude, I wish you a very blessed Thanksgiving 2011.

Update 9 – A Wedding at the Top of The World

Everest Base Camp  — November 10, 2011

While at Base Camp admiring the unbelievable scenery, the incomparable view of Mt. Everest with the Kumbu Icefall in the foreground and the 27,900 ft. peak of Lhotse creating an impressive cloud against the impossibly blue sky — I have never seen a blue as deep as at this altitude! – as snow blew off the peak, we had a special bonus.  A young Czech Republic couple, Sarka Podlucka and David Cemus had trekked to Everest Base Camp where they were to get married!  I instantly became the official wedding videographer, and Kent took video with their camera since the Nepali authorities needed that to verify that the ceremony actually took place. I was already extremely emotional.  I had just called Katie on my cell phone from Everest Base Camp, and could hardly speak, completely overcome by the emotion and the realization of the enormity of our accomplishment.  And now, here was this very touching ceremony of a couple who have likely made the biggest emotional and physical sacrifice of anyone, to commit to each other.  And they had no friends there.  Pretty soon we were all close friends, and the few climbers and guides and porters who were there became an instant wedding congregation.  I was so teared-up I could hardly see the viewfinder! I uploaded this in 1920x1080p HD, so it will be a big file, but high quality for David and Sarka to download as a record and remembrance of their very special day at the top of the world.

Update 8 – Final

Click on the image below for a short video of our Escape from Lukla! 

Escape from Lukla

16th November, 2011 – Wednesday

 Stuck in Lukla

 All day yesterday we hiked in thick fog, sometimes in a fine drizzle.  It was quite cold, and we were concerned about our flight from Lukla to Kathmandu the next day.  Lukla is a small, but vibrant town literally hanging on the side of the Himalayas here.  The airstrip at Lukla is considered the most dangerous in the world.  We could not really tell why because, even though it was still early afternoon when we arrived, the fog was so thick that one could barely see 100 feet.

The single cobblestone street of Lukla was lined with shops, restaurants, and even a Starbucks knock-off.  Porters, donkeys and Yak caravans came down the street as we entered this village at almost 9,300 ft.

We settled into our rooms at the Kumbu Lodge, and met a number of climbers who had been stuck here for two or three days already, with no sign of a possible departure in the next few days.

I spent the day editing my videos, and posting my Everest Base Camp update 7.

The rooms in this guesthouse were quite a surprise.  We had a view of the landing strip and the mountains towering over the town.  Only, we could not see it because of the thick fog.

As we crawled in to go to sleep under two very heavy, thick blankets, a wonderful diversion from our sleeping bags the past 12 days, Kent said, “This hotel gets it!”

There was an on-suite bathroom with toilet, hand basin and shower.  Only problem – no hot water in the hand basin. Another problem – no water in the shower at all – hot or cold.  But this was the first time since Kathmandu that we did not have to go down the hall to use the bathroom in the freezing cold, dark night.

Of course, that is not really a problem, since I kept a one-liter Nalgene water bottle inside my sleeping bag to use as a pee bottle during the night.  In order to stay hydrated, one consumes huge quantities of water during the day, resulting in huge quantities of pee during the night, often a liter and a half.  The nights were very cold – invariably below freezing, and these lodges were not heated.  Hence the need to pee in your sleeping bag into the pee bottle.   While it requires some talent, I perfected this skill on Kilimanjaro three years ago, and had no problem with this trick.  Anyway, it was a wide-necked Nalgene bottle.

 17th November 2011 – Thursday – Day 13

Still Stuck in Lukla – Killing a day in Lukla

Our second day stuck in Lukla.  There is no indication of an improvement in the weather until Sunday, the day we are supposed to leave Kathmandu for New Delhi and on to the USA.  We are concerned, but the one thing that walking, climbing, suffering during the past 13 days have done for me was to teach me that checking the weather forecast is not going to change it.  I have learned acceptance and patience.  I actually enjoyed the down time, and the opportunity to re-live the adventure through editing my videos.

At lunch we went out for a change of scenery – and cuisine.  We ended up in a restaurant a few buildings down from the Rhumba lodge, and ordered a hamburger.  The picture on the menu depicting the hamburger as the “Special of the Day” looked so attractive; all four of us ordered this.   About 20 minutes later the waitress returned to apologize profusely that they have no hamburger, but would we like a chicken burger?

How could they be out of hamburger and still list that as the special of the day, we wondered?  Half an hour later she showed up with our chicken burgers, which were essentially a very thin strip of what looked like chicken spam, and a lot of raw onions on a bun.  So tired of noodles and rice, we ate this offering quite disappointed that we were not eating the juicy, tasty hamburger depicted on their menu picture.

On our way back to the teahouse, we met Ramesh.  “Have you had lunch?’ he asked.  “Yes, thank you”, I said.  “You are not supposed to eat lunch away from Kumbu Resort”, he reprimanded.  “They will double your room rate!”  “Oh,” I said.  “Actually we skipped lunch.”  That was not entirely untrue.  I did not think one could call a chicken spam and onion sandwich lunch.

Later we went for an afternoon walk, and ended up in the Irish Pub, meeting some very interesting adventurers from New Zealand.

After dinner we went to bed, quite discouraged since the weather forecast for Lukla remained bleak.  It was bitterly cold, and a warm shower to wash the dirt fro the past days off one’s body would have been nice.  I determined that the first thing I would do when we eventually reach Kathmandu is to take a hot shower.

18th November, 2011 – Friday – Day 14

Four Cold Showers in Kathmandu

At 7 am. Ramesh knocked on our door.  I let him in.

“Take a picture, take a picture!”

He opened the curtains and the completely frozen window, and there, right outside our window, was the most beautiful sight of the mountains surrounding Lukla, towering clear up to the sky, and not a cloud in sight.  Very excited about the possibility of getting out today, we jumped up and went to the dining room for breakfast.

Our table companions, six travelers from Australia, were all excited because they were able to get six seats on a huge Russian helicopter with the obnoxious French people at the next table over, supposedly leaving right away.  They were all packed and ready, anxious to make their international flight from Kathmandu.  After waiting patiently for almost two hours, their guide suddenly rushed into the dining room where we were all congregated hoping to get a flight out, and in a huge panic rushed them out the door and on to the landing strip (“airport”).

Ramesh, our guide, assured us that we would get out today or tomorrow.  “But we can’t be certain because the weather may change again any time”, he added.

We agreed that it would be prudent to also try to arrange a helicopter, since we were already stuck in Lukla for three days.  So we instructed Ramesh to get us on either a small plane or helicopter, whichever became available first.

The Lukla airstrip was chaos.  The planes they use to fly in-and out are very flimsy looking 10 to 20 seaters.  To help pass the time, Roger, Pete and I stood for several hours at the top of the landing strip to watch the constant flow of airplanes and helicopters come and go.

Until just over 40 years ago the eastern Himalayan region of the Solukhumbu leading to Mt. Everest was inaccessible to most air traffic. The way to reach the heights of the trail head in Lukla was to travel the road from Kathmandu to Jiri, then hike five days over the rugged lowland hills. In 1964 Sir Edmund Hillary initiated construction of the Lukla airfield (LUA), and from that time the area has been opened up to countless enthused hikers, assuming the weather is conducive to landing or taking off from this dangerous mountain airstrip.  It is a great convenience to bypass the arduous hike beyond Jiri since it the hike beyond Lukla is challenging enough for most. Lukla is now a vibrant and welcoming entryway to the Himalayas.

We went back to the Kumbu Lodge for lunch.  No sooner had we ordered or Ramesh came running in shouting, “we must go immediately.”  We have four seats on a helicopter about to land.

I was sorry to forego the chicken chili I ordered, but we literally ran to our rooms, grabbed our backpacks, and trotted off to the airport.  We were bundled into a seven-seater along with five other people – yes, nine of us! – and took off without even had the opportunity for a proper goodbye to Ramesh.  That saddened me some, because for the past 14 days I have relied on this young man for my safety and well being every day.

Taking a short break earlier on in the trek, Ramesh and I discussed our families.  I discovered that he was the same age as my son, Thomas.  From that day on we addressed each other as “my son” and “my father”.  There was much more than some levity to that.  We truly bonded, and I will forever be grateful to this remarkable young man for helping and guiding me through this pinnacle lifetime experience.

I was sitting in the co-pilot’s seat, hoping to get some good video of the mountains below.  We were flying at about 6,700 m. (almost 22,000 ft.) according to the Altimeter in the instrument panel.  Suddenly the ‘copter took a sharp left, then a sharp right, and descended rapidly to land on a plateau with several buildings at what looked like a military installation.  We were asked to get out, and another group of eight took our seats.

“What’s going on?” I asked our pilot.

“You must wait here,” he said.

Wait here?  We were only a half hour into the flight, and had no idea where we were, or if the helicopter would ever come back for us!

We sat around for a long time as we watch the dark, ominous clouds come in over the mountaintop, concerned that the weather might change to where the helicopter may not be ABLE to return, even if their intentions were to do so.  Amazing how the experience of the past two weeks have taught us to accept, and not panic over things we could not control.

After what seemed like a long time, the chopper appeared over the mountaintop, landed, and took us to Kathmandu.  After landing I said, “I am not sure which was the greater adventure; climbing to Everest Base Camp and summitting Kala Patthar, or getting from Kathmandu to the mountains and back!”

What a lovely sight to see the smog and pollution-filled air over the slums of Kathmandu as we glided in the noisy helicopter over the city to the heliport!  I never would have thought I’d RELISH that view!.  Unceremoniously our backpacks were thrown on the back of a pick-up truck.  We piled on top, and were transported the three miles to the main terminal to take a “taxi” back to Katmandu.

By now we knew the route, and reminded each other of the familiar sites as we pass the Bazaar on the left, the Royal Palace on the right (we once again recalled the massacre in the palace just two years ago), the Ministry of education, the slums om Kathmandu and on into the Thamel district.  It was a familiar experience for us, this trip crammed into a very tiny minivan, fighting the unbelievable chaos of the Kathmandu traffic with the cacophony of scooters, motorcycles and cars revving their engines and hooting their horns incessantly, all the while spewing fumes into the air which affected us now so much more than when we were here before.  Most of us had developed some annoying respiratory problems.  My annoying head cold and running nose have now settled in my upper chest, and couching was extremely painful.  The air in Kathmandu did not help any.

We arrived at the Hotel Marsyangdi Mandala at the edge of the Thamel district of Kathmandu.  A very nice place, and I was more than anything looking forward to a hot shower, and maybe even a shave.  I know how Katie hates facial hair!

During the time we were stranded in Kathmandu almost three weeks before, waiting for a break in the weather, I took three cold showers.  The other trekkers all seemed to have hot water, except me.  Three times, three days in a row I jumped into the cold water to get cleaned.

On the mountain, on Day 3 in Namche Bazaar, we were able to take a hot shower.  It was in a dirty little room, with a small gas water heater stuck on a wall, ejecting a small, weak, but welcome stream of hot water into the near-freezing room.  On the way down on day 9, last Saturday, almost a week ago, we were able to enjoy that little shower again.  Oh, how I wallowed in those drops of hot water coming from that small heater!

Now, here we were at a nice hotel in Kathmandu, with a real shower in the bathroom, and water coming out of ALL fawcets.  With great anticipation I took off my smelly clothes, boots and socks, turned the water on, and waited.

This afternoon I took my fourth cold shower in Kathmandu!

Dinner was at the Everest Steak House in Thamel, and then we went for a beer at the Rum Doodle Pub.  This pub is world famous.  Here, many Everest Summit as well as Base Camp expeditions started and finished.  Hundreds of inscriptions adorned the walls and ceilings, and the place was packed with adventurers.  It was gratifying to know that we had accomplished this lofty goal also.  I was tempted to add Kent and my names to the hundreds, but thought no one would ever notice our names among the large number of inscriptions.

I was satisfied in the knowledge that we are in that small percentage of humanity who has had the privilege to reach Everest Base Camp.

19th November, 2011 – Saturday

We had the day free in Kathmandu, and Ram Pahari’s Himalaya Journeys’ tour guide took us for historical monuments sightseeing in Kathmandu valley.

We visited the oldest Buddhist shrine and stupa in the world, on a mountaintop high above the smog-filled Kathmandu valley, with the bustling city of Kathmandu barely visible through the haze of exhaust fumes and pollusion.  We next witnessed several cremations on a sacred river at a Hindu Temple, and after lunch visited the largest Stupa in the world.  We were very tired today, no doubt coming down from the incredible adventure we had experienced.  After a lovely Nepalese dinner hosted for us by Ram, we retired early for a good night’s sleep before our journey back to the good ol’ USA.

We missed our friends, Kathy and Al Wilson.  We are thankful that Al recovered from the AMS, and that they made it back safely to Indianapolis.

I am thankful for renewing the old friendships with Kathy and Al, and just as grateful for the new friendships the four of us, Pete, Roger, Kent and I  forged during this adventure.  Roger, Pete, Kent and I supported each other daily throughout this trek.  I am so very grateful to Kent who gave me the moral support to complete the adventure by reaching the goal: Mt. Everest Base Camp and summiting Kala Patthar.

I am grateful for Ram Pahari, Himalaya Journey Treks & Expedition who made all the arrangements, and who stepped in time-and-again as circumstances changed, sometimes working THREE cell phones at once, talking with helicopter and airline offices and hotels at the same time as we stood in the chaotic parking area of the Kathmandu airport, and who eventually made everything work out for us.

I am grateful forShiva Katuwel, Tika Basnet, and Bal Kumar Basnet, our porters.  How these small, tough Nepalese were able to negotiate the difficult climbs with our extra backpacks as well as their own, astounds me.  They became much more than porters, they became our friends and compatriots.

And my Nepalese son, Ramesh Kharel.  So young and so competent.  Reminds me of my own son.

My sincere thanks to my team at Grové Financial Group of UBS in Columbus, Ohio.  I hope you know how much I appreciate each one of you, as you continued to take care of our valuable client relationships in the US while I was doing this Walkabout.

A final thanks to my family – Katie, who never hesitated when I said I wanted to climb Kilimanjaro, or trek to Everest Base Camp, and who, along with Tommy and Yuki and Jessica and Dan, supported me all the way.  I miss you all, and particularly my two grandsons, Ryusei in Saigon and Gavin in New York.

 See you in Columbus on Monday afternoon!

-o0o-

 

Our Outfitter for this Adventure

Ram Pahari

Himalaya Journey Treks & Expedition Pvt. Ltd.

P.O.Box No:- 21235 Thamel, Katmandu , Nepal .

Tel:977-1-4383184 , 4386585

Mobile:- 977-9851007829

Fax:- 977-1-4415679

E-mail:- himjourney@mail.com.np

himalayajourney@yahoo.com

welcomehimalaya@gmail.com

Web site: www.himalayajourneys.com

www.alpinejourney.com

www.himalayatreks.de

Update 7

10th November, 2011 – Thursday – Day 7

Willie on the summit of Kala Patthar – best view of Mount Everest

Well, I tried to upload the video I mentioned in my last post but the Internet at Namche Bazaar at 11,286 ft. was not very reliable – the video did not make it to YouTube.  So, here is a more complete update of the last few days.

On November 10, we awoke in Lebouche; 16,174 ft. very early and started what turned out to be the most taxing day up to then

We trekked through Gorak Shep on to Everest Base Camp, 17,600 ft. then back to Gorak Shep at 16,995 ft. to spend a fitful night at high altitude 16,995 ft.  This was a long and BRUTAL climb and quite a lot to expect of an old guy like me in one day.  The problem was that we did not just gain 1,426 ft. up to Base Camp and then down to Gorak Shep.  The total elevation change was many thousands of feet more than that as we constantly climbed over boulders and up very steep inclines, sometimes for hours without end in sight, just to descend over 1,000 feet to the next valley.

We walked and scrambled for many miles alongside and sometimes literally on top of the lower levels of the Kumbu Icefall and the Kumbu Glacier.  Finally we reached Base Camp, exhausted but exhilarated.

While at Base Camp admiring the unbelievable scenery, the incomparable view of Mt. Everest with the Khumbu Icefall in the foreground and the 27,900 ft. peak of Lhotse creating an impressive cloud against the impossibly blue sky – I have never seen a blue as deep as at this altitude! – as snow blew off the peak, we had a special bonus.  A young Czech Republic couple, Sarka Podlucka and David Cemus had trekked to Everest Base Camp where they were to get married!  I instantly became the official wedding videographer, and Kent took some video with their camera, since the Nepali authorities needed that to verify that the ceremony actually took place.

I was already extremely emotional.  I had just called Katie on my cell phone from Everest Base Camp, and could hardly speak, completely overcome by the emotion and the realization of the enormity of our accomplishment.  And now, here was this very touching ceremony of a couple who have likely made the biggest emotional and physical sacrifice of anyone, to commit to each other.  And they had no friends there.  Pretty soon we were all close friends, and the few climbers and guides and porters who were there became an instant wedding congregation.  I was so teared-up I could hardly see the viewfinder!

Wedding on top of the world

Late afternoon, having arrived back at Gorak Shep, I was feeling quite sick, and could not figure out if it was from the altitude (Acute Mountain Sickness – AMS) or just extreme exhaustion.  I went to our room and lay there shivering, with my whole body tingling, and with quite a severe headache, fearing for cerebral edema, and quite certain that there would be no way I could attempt the 18,192 ft. climb to the summit of Kala Patthar the next morning.  Ramesh came into the room, grabbed my camera and took a few beautiful sunset pictures.

Everest Base Camp is a very special place, and a remarkable achievement.  But the view from Kala Patthar is supposed to be the highlight of this climb, and to reach the summit of Kala Patthar is another achievement not many can claim.  So I was quite bummed!  To top it all, the Czech couple was coming over to see the video, and to have me download their video to my computer, since I promised them that I would compile a nice video of their ceremony and post it to my MobileMe web hosting service.  At the appointed time I got up and went to the dining room where we had a great re-living of the beautiful ceremony in a most beautiful place.

We have not had a shower for five days, and I am sure a hot shower would have helped.  However, with the facilities quite basic I decided to pass.  I went to bed by 8 pm, still shivering, and unable to sleep.  I am sure I dozed off during the night, but sleep was very elusive.

11th November, 2011 – Friday – Day 8

At 6 am I heard Kent move around the room, and asked where he was going.  “Kala Patthar”, he said.  I lay there, unable to process what that meant.  Finally I said, “I don’t understand.  Can you tell me what’s happening?”

“Today is Kala Patthar”, he said.

I wondered about that some more, and then realized what it meant.

“Oh shit”, I said, and jumped out of bed, and got dressed as quickly as I could, feeling quite dizzy.

After a good breakfast I felt better, and we started our climb up the almost sheer mountainside of Kala Patthar.  We were led by Ramesh, and accompanied by one of our porters, Bal.  Bal offered to take my backpack, and Kent offered significant moral support.

We climbed to the 18,192 ft. summit for the most incredible views.

Willie and Kent on the summit of Kala Patthar, Mount Pumori in the background

We sat at the peak of Kala Patthar, a five-foot wide pinnacle with sheer drops of more than 1,000 feet on three sides.  We were in the middle of a complete circle, surrounded by the highest mountain peaks in the world; of Mt. Everest 8,848m (29,028 ft.), Mt. Lhotse 8,516m (27,939 ft.) Mt. Nuptse, 7,855m (25,771 ft.), Mt. Pumori 7,161m, Mt. Changaste 7,550m, Khumbutse 6,665m, Mt. Amadablam 6.856m, Mt. Thamserku 6,723m, Mt. Kantega 6,979m, Mt. Kusum Khangaru 6,367m, Mt.Kongde 6,011m, Mt. Tawache peak 6,367m, Mt. Cholaste 6,335m.

To see this view was for me a lifetime high, likely impossible to ever match in whatever time I have left on this earth.

My sickness was completely gone now, and I literally felt on top of the world!

We climbed back down to Gorak Shep and continued our trek down continued our down through Labouche and Thukla, to spend the night in Pheriche, 4,243 m. (13,900 ft.).

12th November, 2011 – Saturday – Day 9

Another brutal day of severe changes in altitude and steep up-and-down climbs brought us through incredibly beautiful scenery and the villages of Pangboche, 3,985 m. (13,000 ft.) and to Tengboche, 3,867 (12,600 ft.), where we had lunch.  We were almost at our physical limit, but a late lunch rejuvenated us for the final push down to Namche Bazaar 3,440m, (11,286 ft.) – in total, an almost nine hour brutal trek of severe climbs and descents.

This was a full day’s very hard trekking.  Kent and I decided to try to do what would normally be three day’s trekking in two days in order to surprise Roger and Pete at Namche Bazaar.  While we were supposedly LOSING altitude, the gains and losses as we pushed really hard to complete this two-day trek almost did us in!

We were very happy to meet up with our friends, Pete and Roger at the Kamal Hotel, and had a great celebration!  We were welcomed back to the Kamal Guest House by the lovely family who own this “hotel”.

One of the most amazing things of this experience was the wonderful disposition of the Nepalese people.  Always a warm smile.  Always a special welcome.  And I cannot say enough about our guide, Ramesh Kharel, and our Sherpa porters, Shiva Katuwal, Tika Basnet and Bal Kumar Basnet.  Without the wonderful encouraging smile, never-changing friendly, supportive demeanor, I likely would not have made it to Everest Base Camp, up Kala Patthar, and back down to Namche Bazaar to meet up with our friends.

We were sad that Mina, the daughter of Mr. Kamal, the owner of the guesthouse was not in Namche.  She was so warm and friendly when we stayed at the Kamal on the way up.  On the third morning of our trek, (we had a conditioning/acclimatization day in Namche), just before we left or a hike up to the Everest View hotel, I Skyped my son, Tommy, his wife, Yuki and our grandson, Ryusei in Saigon, Vietnam.  Mina has a cute little daughter, and the two kids made quite a connection on the Internet, giggling at each other.  Mina was convinced that we could arrange betrothal, and she was quite impressed to be talking with and seeing Tommy and Yuki, and that I have a Japanese daughter-in-law.

In spite of sniffling and coughing through the night, using my pee bottle at least five times – amazing that one can pee about one-and-a-half liter in one night! – I had a wonderful rest and woke the next morning totally refreshed and ready for the two days’ trek to Lukla.

13th November, 2011 – Sunday – Day 10

We were so looking forward to a change in pace regarding breakfast this morning.  We have had porridge every morning for the past nine days in order to have enough “fuel” for a full day of trekking.  We all felt that we would throw up if we had the huge bowl of porridge one more time.  The next thing we knew a huge bowl of porridge appeared in front of each of us on the table.  We protested mildly to Ramesh that we really were hoping for eggs or something else this morning, but politely accepted and started forcing the porridge down.  What was our surprise when in front of Ramesh appeared an order of two fried eggs and toast!  We all laughed and shared the irony of the moment, but gave Ramesh a hard time for days afterwards.

We were now ready to trek to Jorsale and as we gathered our backpacks and poles, Mr. Kamal offered us each a complementary cup of coffee.  We accepted, and no sooner were we finished enjoying our last cup of hospitality from these good people, or Ramesh had us line up together, side-by-side.  Mr. Kamal approached and hung a prayer shawl around each of our necks, while offering a blessing to each of us for the rest of our journey.  How special!

Kent and I spent the next two hours in an Internet Café, since the Kamal Wi-Fi was down, and I wanted to post the short video I put together the night before.  After almost two hours I realized the video did not complete uploading to YouTube.  Roger and Pete took off with Shiva more than an hour before.  I paid the $10.00 for the connection, and after a slice of pizza in the local bakery we took off for Jorsale.

We caught up with Pete and Roger after a brisk one-hour hike, mostly downhill.  We were now at less than half the altitude of Kala Patthar, and we were feeling fantastic and so strong!  Amazing what oxygen will do!

We concluded the rest of the morning’s trek at a leisurely pace, stopping often to admire the beautiful scenery, crossing suspension bridges and passing the amazing Yak and donkey caravans which are the only mode of transportation, other than the remarkable men and a few women who carry huge loads on their backs up the mountain.

We arrived at Jorsale, 2,930 m. (9,6109 ft.) and had an excellent lunch at the Nirvana Garden Lodge, a lovely place with beautiful gardens, and comfortable rooms.  We all agreed that we had the best night sleep yet.

14th November, 2011 – Monday – Day 11

Trekking along the Dudh Kosi River

We left early for a beautiful hike, mostly downhill to Phakding, 2,640 m. (8,660 ft.).  This was where we spent our first night on our way up the mountain.  We stayed at the International Trekkers Guest House that night, and we where we were welcomed back like family by the lovely young family who runs this lodge.

Like in Namche at the Kamal lodge, everyone was asking about Al and Kathy.

I should explain what happened to our fellow trekkers on the way up.

Climbing, trekking, hiking.  Call it what you may, this adventure was extremely difficult.  Negotiating severe ups-and-downs, scrambling over boulders, climbing endless ancient steps built by generations past – since the mountain sides would be too steep to crawl up or down without them – all the while at extreme altitude, was an incredible test for all of us.

The climb from Namche Bazaar, 3,440 m. (11, 280 ft.) to Tengboche, 3,867 m. (12,680 ft.) was a total gain of 1,400 ft.  That is quite deceiving, since I am certain the TOTAL altitude change, climbing up and down these steep mountains, must have been many times that.

On the morning of the fifth day, Pete and Roger decided to forego the significantly greater altitude and climbing difficulty, and seek a different adventure.  Ramesh drew up a route for them to hike while Kent, Al, Kathy and I continued up the trail.  Their adventures and their excitement about their journey the next four days is another chapter.

If we thought the trek from Namche to Tengboche was severe, we had a major surprise waiting for us the next day.  The climb that fifth day from Tengboche to Pheriche, 4,243 m. (13,929 ft.) was even more taxing at this higher altitude (a gain of 1,233 ft. this day) with even steeper mountainsides.

Al has been suffering from sinus and other respiratory problems almost from the beginning.  Never complaining, he forged on, each step of this day certainly agony for him.  I could tell he was suffering, and admired him immensely for the courage and mental strength to keep on going.

Cold and dark, in a small guesthouse at almost 14,000 ft. in the Himalayas, Al lay on his bed in the room next to Kent and mine, and was coughing severely.  Just as I told Kent how worried I was for Al’s health, Kathy came into our room and told us that they have decided not to continue.  Kathy and Ramesh took Al to the hospital in this small village where Al was diagnosed with severe Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS).  He was kept at the hospital, and the next morning Al and Kathy were evacuated by Helicopter to Kathmandu where Al was admitted to the hospital.

I am happy report that Al recovered.  After he was discharged from the hospital we were able to talk to him as they were making their arrangements to return to the US.  The remarkable coincidence was that we were on top of Kala Patthar at 18,200 ft. when we got that call!

15th November, 2011 – Tuesday – Day 12

This morning we left for Lukla from Phakding and very much enjoyed the familiar scenery at which we marveled on the way up the mountain.

After a four-hour trek in thick fog, with some surprising elevation changes, we arrived at Lukla, 9,285 ft. from where we hope to leave for Kathmandu tomorrow morning.  Unfortunately the weather conditions have not been very good, and we are likely to get stuck here for a few days.  Our flight back to the USA is in the 20^th, so we have some leeway.

We all agree that this has been the most inspiring journey we have ever undertaken.  For me, the spiritual and emotional accomplishment far exceeds the physical challenge.

Every day as I looked at the splendor of this beautiful country, day-by-day surrounded by sheer mountains all exceeding 25,000 feet, a verse from Psalm 121 constantly went through my head, “I will lift up mine eyes unto the hills…”

What inspiration these mountains gave me!

Posted at Lukla, Nepal

November 15^th, 2011

Thanks to Kent for proof-reading this post and suggesting some helpful changes and additions.

Update 6

On November 10, we awoke in Lebouche and trekked through Gorak Shep on to Everest Base Camp (17,600 ft.) then back to Gorak Shep to spend a fitful night at high altitude 5,180m (16,995 ft.).

Early the next morning, we climbed Kala Patthar 5,545m (18,192 ft.) for superb Himalayan scenery including Kent and Willie’s trek to Everest Base Camp (17,600 ft.) and Kala Patthar summit (18,192 ft.) for the most incredible views of Mt. Everest 8,848m (29,028 ft.), Mt. Lhotse 8,516m (27,939 ft.) Mt. Nuptse, 7,855m (25,771 ft.), Mt. Pumori 7,161m, Mt. Changaste 7,550m, Khumbutse 6,665m, Mt. Amadablam 6.856m, Mt. Thamserku 6,723m, Mt. Kantega 6,979m, Mt. Kusum Khangaru 6,367m, Mt.Kongde 6,011m, Mt. Tawache peak 6,367m, Mt. Cholaste 6,335m. From there we went back to Gorak Shep and continued our trek down to Pheriche, 4,260m (13, 976 ft.) to spend the night before trekking to Namche Bazaar 3,440m, (11,286 ft.) – an almost nine hour brutal trek of severe climbs and descents.  We were happy to meet up with our friends, Pete and Roger at the Kamal Hotel, and had a great celebration!

Base Camp and Kala Patthar video trailer on  

Willie and Kent on the summit of Kala Patthar – the best view of Mount Everest

Everest Base Camp Update 5

Willie and Kent at Everest Base Camp

We made it to Everest Base Camp today.  After seven days of very hard trekking – I would rather call it climbing – we finally reached our goal: Everest Base Camp at 5,364 metres (17,700 ft.)  Today’s hike was brutal.  Many elevation changes, scampering over huge boulders, loose gravel, drop-offs on both sides several hundred feet with occasionally less than one foot of trail.  Amazing to hike right on top of the Kumbu Glacier.  An amazing achievement fo both of us.  Unfortunately we lost four of our original six-pack due to AMS and severe difficulty of the hike.

Click on the    icon for a short trailer on YouTube

Base Camp Hike Update 4

The Six Pack and the Mountain of Destiny

Click on the photo to go to  for a “Trailer” of our Everest Adventure

We are at Namche Bazaar, two days’ hike into the adventure.

I think the past two days’ hike was as hard as the summit day on Kilimanjaro. Fortunately we were not at almost 20,000 feet like we were on Kili!

Two days of incredible scenery – I think the most beautiful I have EVER seen!

After three days of trying to get from Kathmandu to the mountains we finally hired a helicopter.   After an incredible flight following the Dudh Kosi River all the way from Kuthmandu, dodging mountain tops and seemingly missing cliff sides by inches, we had a very short window in which to get to Surke from Kathmandu.   Surke wasn’t a village; it was a flat piece of dirt carved out of the sheer mountain side.  We were met by Ramesh who is to be our guide for the next two weeks as we hike to Everest.

We hiked 7 1/2 hours that first day, carrying our packs and struggling up incredibly steep mountain sides, and eventually arrived at a sweet little mountain inn run by a lovely Nepalise family in the village of Phakding – pronunced Fakding.  The guys had some fun with that name…

No heating in the rooms, and no blankets – very basic, but welcome after a very difficult hike.

Left early yesterday morning, our second day of the trek, and hiked for almost eight hours (think climb – up-and-down) which almost did us in!  The hike was a brutal climb, mostly up, never-ending, very challenging. We arrived at Namche Bazaar totally exhausted, but exhilarated.  I paid $4.00 for a hot shower – maybe the last in two weeks.

Namche is at 11,340 ft. and an important step in our process of adjusting to the higher altitudes to come. Tomorrow would be an altitude acclimatizing day. We will stay in Namche Bazaar, but take a four hour hike to a higher altitude, and then spend the night here.

I made a short video trailer and uploaded it to 

Day 3 – Everest View Hotel

Today did a wonderful hike up to a fancy hotel built by a Japanese Magnate.  The hotel is called Everest View.  Unfortunately, after an almost 3-hour climb, everything was still fogged in, and we had no view.  We made it back down to Namche Bazaar in about 1 1/2 hours.  Rest of the day we rested and prepared for the severe hiking starting the next day, Day 4.